tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18065878906961421992024-03-13T18:14:13.179+07:00Coming to VietnamMultigenerational Vietnamese Americans (and a Scandinavian-American) return to Vietnam for the first time, reuniting with and discovering our origins.Mike Arefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10097304341470388494noreply@blogger.comBlogger28125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-16346535899040029552011-01-15T16:42:00.004+07:002011-01-15T19:24:42.924+07:00A Stroll with the Amygdala<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">January</span> 15, 2011 5<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">pm</span><br /><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">We</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">are</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">leaving</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">tonight</span>...<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">back</span> to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">states</span>...<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">back</span> in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">time</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">since</span> in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">Vietnam</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">we</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">are</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">nearly</span> a day <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">ahead</span>. I'm <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">sad</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">because</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18">two</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19">weeks</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21">just</span> an <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22">appetizer</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_23">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24">Vietnam</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_25">and</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_26">want</span> the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_27">full</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_28">meal</span>. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_29">Speaking</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_30">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_31">meals</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_32">since</span> I do <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_33">lead</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_34">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_35">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_36">stomach</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_37">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_38">times</span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_39">will</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_40">miss</span> the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_41">food</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_42">especially</span> the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_43">meals</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_44">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_45">were</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_46">cooked</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_47">by</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_48">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_49">family</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_50">here</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_51">not</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_52">only</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_53">because</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_54">of</span> the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_55">taste</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_56">but</span> the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_57">interactions</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_58">that</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_59">observed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_60">between</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_61">family</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_62">members</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_63">that</span> I've <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_64">only</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_65">just</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_66">met</span>. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_67">There</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_68">were</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_69">many</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_70">familiar</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_71">tastes</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_72">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_73">reminded</span> me <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_74">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_75">my</span> mom's <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_76">cooking</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_77">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_78">made</span> me <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_79">appreciate</span> so <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_80">much</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_81">more</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_82">of</span> the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_83">meals</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_84">that</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_85">she</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_86">prepares</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_87">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_88">us</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_89">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_90">forces</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_91">us</span> to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_92">eat</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_93">even</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_94">when</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_95">our</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_96">stomachs</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_97">are</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_98">busting</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_99">through</span> the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_100">buttons</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_101">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_102">our</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_103">jeans</span>. And my mom; she hangs with her bros and her sistas just like we do.<br /><br />I've <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_104">made</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_105">connections</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_106">here</span>...<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_107">connections</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_108">that</span> I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_109">will</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_110">not</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_111">soon</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_112">forget</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_113">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_114">will</span> be <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_115">back</span> to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_116">enhance</span>. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_117">Some</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_118">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_119">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_120">favorite</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_121">moments</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_122">have</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_123">been</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_124">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_125">my</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_126">parents</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_127">just</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_128">strolling</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_129">around</span> the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_130">streets</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_131">of</span> the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_132">city</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_133">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_134">seeing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_135">them</span> so <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_136">relaxed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_137">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_138">carefree</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_139">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_140">each</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_141">other</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_142">reminiscing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_143">about</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_144">places</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_145">they</span>'ve <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_146">been</span> to, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_147">foods</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_148">they</span>'ve <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_149">eaten</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_150">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_151">traditions</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_152">they</span>'ve <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_153">experienced</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_154">themselves</span>.<br /><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_155">Of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_156">course</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_157">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_158">you</span>'re <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_159">strolling</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_160">around</span> the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_161">streets</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_162">of</span> Ho Chi Minh <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_163">City</span>, be <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_164">prepared</span> to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_165">experience</span> the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_166">Amygdala</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_167">hijack</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_168">that</span> <span style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffff00">is unavoidable</span>! <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_172">Even</span> the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_173">most</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_174">cognitive</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_175">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_176">minds</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_177">will</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_178">revert</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_179">back</span> to the primitive <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_180">fear</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_181">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_182">stress</span> state <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_183">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_184">crossing</span> the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_185">streets,</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_186">as</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_187">cars</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_188">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_189">motorbikes</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_190">barely</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_191">dodge</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_192">you</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_193">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_194">you</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_195">see</span> with mouths agape, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_196">whole</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_197">families</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_198">share</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_199">scooter</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_200">children</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_201">sandwiched</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_202">between</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_204">parents! But oddly enough there are also times when we step into streams of oncoming traffic, and there is a parting of the seas...and we end up on the other side somehow.</span><br /><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_205">All</span> in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_206">all</span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_207">will</span> be <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_208">back</span>. I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_209">will</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_210">miss</span> the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_211">people</span>, the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_212">food</span>, my family, and even the sensory overload of <span style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffff00">perpetual</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_214">action, sounds,</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_215">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_216">motions unique to Vietnam</span>...tam <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_222">biet</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_223">Vietnam</span>.<br /><br />linwinlinwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16826471190956956961noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-45847049362892109232011-01-15T14:43:00.000+07:002011-01-15T14:46:18.011+07:00Holy Gastrointestinal Calamities Batman!<p>The reason that (at least my portion) of the blog has been silent is that I've been afflicted with some sort of gastrointestinal nightmare with associated fever, rigors, sweats, and nausea. At least flow was unidirectional, if sudden, uncomfortable, and wholly unpleasant. As I was maintaining hydration (using the isotonic Revive from 7UP) and a small ability to eat I refrained from visiting any of the local medical facilities. Physician heal thyself. I'm hoping this is simply a bad bout of viral gastroenteritis and as my symptoms are improving this remains at the top of the differential. We had a sick one coming in, and a sick one coming out, but I'm glad that our sick casualties were to occur so fortuitously to only minimally affect our trip. I did however miss some happy, excellent meals with the in-laws by report. My loyal and loving wife remained at my side throughout this ordeal.</p>Mike Arefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10097304341470388494noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-82479763695982825352011-01-12T23:35:00.000+07:002011-01-15T14:38:39.129+07:00Ho Chi Minh City Museum and the War Remnants Museum<p>Despite suffering from nausea, Lan was a trooper and went sight seeing with me in Ho Chi Minh City. This was certainly a day of challenging perspectives. The Ho Chi Minh City museum attempts to relate the history, geology, ecology, and economy of Ho Chi Minh City. There were several beautiful ceramic pieces that show the unique style and external influences of each dynasty. It was also interesting to see the state sanctioned historical perspective of the struggle against French colonialism by the communist movement which was subsequently turned into conflict to contain the spread of communism by the US. The version described in the museum is not quite the version I recall from grade school, and I'm fairly sure the truth lies somewhere in between.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5001/5356037741_368e3ecda2.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0390" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5002/5356040569_edb864bfeb.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0393" /></p><br /><p>Two Vietnamese beauties look on as I study the moves of a master.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5124/5356654332_b7488b82c1.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0394" /><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5356039609_2ca0497b94.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0395" /></p><br /><p>Examples of Vietnamese pottery.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5130/5356042231_63a37dd261.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0396" /> </p><br /><p>Attending a communist rally.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5207/5356041293_f42f4eb23d.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0398" /></p><br /><p>Model of the Cu Chi tunnels, the largest Viet Cong tunnel complex north of Ho Chi Minh City</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5166/5356649666_3017978d81.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0399" /></p><br /><p>The medical kit of a Viet Cong medic.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5248/5356036559_7c6e7046b5.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0392" /><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5009/5356036263_210f6d1f47.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0400" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5241/5356651110_349859e7d4.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0401" /></p><br /><p>American service vehicles were captured by the Viet Cong who taught themselves how to operate them and then painted new colors on them for use toward the end of the war.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5010/5356041897_49997d48f7.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0402" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5082/5356655544_3a372cdee6.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0403" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5044/5356651500_5d062312a8.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0404" /><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5286/5356040985_6ecd483724.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0397" /></p><br /><p>Outside the Ho Chi Minh City museum.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5047/5356650850_e7a4a0c17d.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0405" /></p><br /><p>Despite the fact that I'm bigger than this car, private vehicles like this were used to ferry wounded, supplies, and weapons.</p><br /><p>From the Ho Chi Minh City museum we walked north toward the Reunification Place, where the Southern Vietnamese surrendered. Unfortunately we didn't get to tour the inside because they were hosting a conference that day.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5088/5356650500_1b78ee099a.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0406" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5087/5356039891_7fef731f8f.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0407" /></p><br /><p>The Reunification Palace</p><br /><p>The War Remnants Museum is a place of powerful emotion. The outside begins fairly benignly with captured implements of war by land and air. From there we walked through a replica of a prisoner of war museum which related stories of prisoners who were tortured. It showed cells, a real guillotine (with the biography of its last victim), and many photographs of the effects of torture. Some 4000 prisoners are still unaccounted for. While illuminating in highlighting similarities in torture techniques used then and now, e.g. "waterboarding", it is somewhat one-sided. Prisoners of war were tortured by both sides and kept in horrible surroundings.</p><br /><p>Inside were different galley exhibits of photographs highlighting various atrocities of the American-Vietnamese conflict. One had the alleged victims of the effects of Agent Orange, a series of photographs of phenotypic deformities. While it is well acknowledged that this had more than herbicidal effects and presumably has carcinogenic and teratogenic effects a series a photos without epidemiologic correlation is shock value not science. Yes deformities are terrible afflictions and yes they could be presumably due to Agent Orange, but simply putting up pictures and slapping the label of Agent Orange victims is not a fair assessment, even if it <i>might</i> be true.</p><br /><p>The floors above showed other collections of pictures. There was an exhibit of war correspondents pictures, some of whom were killed in action. War photographs are intensely emotional by their content alone, but there is something even more chilling when the picture is labelled "from the last roll of film shot by..." and the image recorded was minutes before their death.</p><br /><p>Another exhibit showed the overall losses of the American-Vietnamese war, the numbers of killing and death. Another gallery showed the ravages of war on the cities and the regrowth that they have gone through today.</p><br /><p>In all not the history I was taught and again I'm sure the truth lies between the two versions. War causes people to due inhuman things to one another and neither side is innocent of that. Perhaps we can learn from past mistakes, although more current history does not support that. The idea that one side is evil, or that Americans are always the good guys, might be a little too golden a perspective on our nation.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5081/5356649932_19fcf37593.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0409" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5009/5356652754_e0b440e36e.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0410" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5356648320_424b0a4b4d.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0411" /></p><br /><p>Captured air craft outside the War Remnants museum.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5004/5356042541_bbf721a028.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0412" /></p><br /><p>The exhibit featuring the prisoner of war prison used both by the South Vietnamese government, the French, and the US. Not a pleasant reminder of the inhumanity of humans during war.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5248/5356649350_f01af1c6ed.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0413" /></p><br /><p>Tiger cages were placed in the hot sun and often filled with offal, then not one but multiple prisoners would be thrust into them as punishment.</p><br /><br />Mike Arefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10097304341470388494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-25661512873810457452011-01-12T14:18:00.003+07:002011-01-12T14:33:36.891+07:00Like chocolate, but more realI'll miss it.<br /><br />I realized today how little time left we have here in "Bietnam", as my nephew Evan likes to call it. It's extremely bittersweet...I'd say a little more on the bitter side, maybe about 70% cacao. I've had such a wonderful experience here but to know that I'll never get to truly know this country is a bit painful. I know I'll be back someday though, and hopefully explore more places with more Nguyen siblings. <br /><br />Going to Hue, Da Nang, and our grandfather's village definitely made me appreciate the life that was given to me more and now I'm better able to understand what my parents and grandparents had gone through to give us the life we currently have. My sister asked my dad to retell the tale of how our family came over to the states from Vietnam in the seventies. She said that it would be easier to imagine the story in our heads. There was something about actually being in the country and now being able to picture everything more coherently that made the story a little bit more real this time. Everything is a little more real this time. Because we are here...even if only for a short time. And I will come back someday.kimmaaaayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17223200392878768633noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-19249208993581105442011-01-11T22:53:00.001+07:002011-01-15T19:55:18.437+07:00Vietnamese History Museum and Water Puppets<p>Today we started the day by visiting the Vietnamese Museum of History. It detailed the history of the many peoples and dynasties of Vietnam from the Stone Age until the last of the Vietnamese kings. Each room tried to highlight one dynasty or people of Vietnam and by doing so showed how complex and multicultural this land really is. Vietnam has a unique cultural identity infused with contributions from every society that has ever touched it.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5356028653_f3c4e061e9.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0363" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5122/5356640978_f5dd39e756.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0364" /></p><br /><p>The Beautiful Young Vietnamese-American Women's Association of the Midwest touring the museum.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5203/5356029017_dc77032dfc.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0365" /></p><br /><p>A door that is nearly a thousand years old.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5356639472_b21964b15b.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0366" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5202/5356026273_381e17f2b6.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0367" /></p><br /><p>Tablets from Oc Eo civilization</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/5356642896_e59348ba36.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0369" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5086/5356027811_bf79f749e9.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0370" /></p><br /><p>Posing with some statues. The thin giant seems to support the hypothesis that ancient man was visited by aliens.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5084/5356644506_af6cf8bc37.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0371" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5002/5356642346_7c5a899e75.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0372" /></p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5130/5356644854_96a24eab44.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0373" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5130/5356025767_2dd22fa81b.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0374" /></p><br /><p>The museum also featured water puppetry. I had never heard of this until I read about it in our guide book and was interested in checking it out. Apparently a traditional performance art form, the puppets are used to tell stories. What is particularly interesting is that the water is used to hide the poles, ropes, and whatever else makes the puppets work. The show was a spectacular wonder inducing series of more and more complex puppets, even for jaded 21st century eyes used to computer graphics. I spent most of the show entranced by the colorful characters and confused by how the puppeteers were accomplishing their performance. I just wish my nephews and young cousins have a chance to see a water puppet show in the future.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5085/5356643440_ce4d53f223.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0376" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/5356639788_a4f42d1b02.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0379" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5283/5356643670_0ed02d2528.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0380" /></p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5006/5356645098_d0338827f6.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0382" /></p><br /><p>The Jade Emperor Pagoda</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5210/5356644112_04af9a6a20.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0385" /></p><br /><p>Many turtles in the pond adjacent to the Jade Emperor Pagoda</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5085/5356640108_bccdc26a69.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0387" /></p><br /><p>The Tran Hung Dao Temple</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5128/5356032853_0cc9c2ec89.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0389" /></p><br /><p>Eating a fantastic creme brulle at the Pat' a Chou near the Ben Thanh market after some shopping.<br /></p><br /><p>Our last event of the day was dinner with Uncles 4 and 9 and their families at the Mon Hué. Mon Hué has a collection of restaurants throughout Ho Chi Minh City (and allegedly in California) and serves Hué style cuisine. The food was fantastic.</p>Mike Arefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10097304341470388494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-19134220859457953132011-01-11T08:12:00.000+07:002011-01-11T08:13:34.173+07:00This Little Piggy Went to the Market<p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; min-height: 14.0px"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"><b></b></span><br /></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"><b><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span></b>Life is not like the movies, nor is it like TV. It was from a notable travel series on TV that I was first introduced to Ben Thanh Market. My impression was that of a peaceful market with wide aisles for carefree strolling, happy, smiling vendors proudly displaying their wares, and motherly cooks tempting passerbys with Vietnamese soul food. Instead, Ben Thanh Market is hectic, humid, claustrophobic, and suffocating. There is no strolling here, you are forcefully carried with the current of harried and determined locals. The extremely narrow aisles promote an unnatural, almost pathological gait. There is no structural demarcation between vendors and products blend seamlessly into one another such that you are constantly experiencing a deja vu. Vendors eye shoppers hungrily ready to pounce on any potential sale. You have suddenly become prey amidst a market full of predators and the pressure to bleed your wallet is overwhelming. And this is rightly so as the competition is fierce and their livelihood is at stake. </span></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; min-height: 14.0px"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span></span></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>The endless sights, sounds, and smells of Ben Thanh Market lead to a perpetual over-stimulation with subsequent sensory overload. With hair standing, ears perked, nostrils flared, mouths drooling, and teary, blood-shot eyes, you search for prized souvenirs. Despite being on an environmentally-induced high, I managed to make a few prudent purchases. There is no need for illicit drug use here, Ben Thanh is market marijuana. </span></p>Eagle-eyehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136933785892125603noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-62267761949923143802011-01-09T21:15:00.001+07:002011-01-11T08:07:08.205+07:00We got to hang in Da Nang<p>We took a day trip to Da Nang to see Muc's (Lan's mother) home and the home were Uan stayed while going to high school. The two met because they were neighbors. The roadtrip took us from the wet lowlands into the mountainous highlands, seemingly two separate geographies smashed together by accident. The road was winding and pretty treacherous with seemingly depressed tour bus drivers ready to end it all and take out a passel of annoying foreigners by passing haphazardly during the steep mountain crossing. Our driver was a cautious man who loved life and took us at a sedate, comfortable pace to Da Nang.</p><br /><p>On our way to Da Nang we stopped at an awesome sea food restaurant called Sao Bien, where we had a multitude of yummy sea critters for lunch. I also got to sample more of my new favorite beer, Huda (Vietnamese brew made possible by Danish technology). We continued our trip to Da Nang and during our visit there we toured the Cham museum. The Cham were a Hindu civilization that ruled southern Vietnam thousands of years ago. I was entirely unaware that an Indian empire had stretched this far, but the evidence is vividly displayed in the form of stone work and artifacts.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5241/5343046430_b7ae1a9b85.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0299" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5284/5342445805_0ae27387c5.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0301" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5042/5342451257_54d5a3c82b.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0302" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5170/5343047154_3f35542b0c.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0304" /></p><br /><p>On the two lane road we saw the highlands and lowlands of Vietnam, as well as some water buffalo. The trip back in the night was pretty bad, as we saw two accidents.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5127/5342446477_bfea9536d4.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0309" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5249/5343049652_8eaae427e6.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0310" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5163/5343047514_79a528023e.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0311" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5084/5343051512_6e5d825c9e.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0313" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5005/5342437205_850467737c.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0314" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5005/5342444685_286c2c74a8.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0316" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5204/5342436319_e797276c3b.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0317" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5084/5343059162_0526dd10f3.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0320" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5004/5342444299_46c6d705a6.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0321" /></p><br /><p>At Sao Bien restaurant we ate fresh sea food: shrimp, crabs, and two kinds of fish soup. It was divine. Uan used to stop here on his way to Da Nang as a student. At that time it was a one lane road over the mountain, so people had to wait to cross. Now we use the tunnel (below). We did not sample the pickled reptiles.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5123/5342450011_aecd4f9a8b.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0323" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5209/5342438765_947ee77049.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0325" /></p><br /><p>Uan's old high school.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5246/5342443229_c144b5789b.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0326" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5085/5343058088_6a779849c4.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0327" /></p><br /><p>While going to high school, Uan stayed with family friends who still live in this home in Da Nang. Muc lived right around the corner.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5343044312_732dda6dd8.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0328" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5342443955_93ecdd4973.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0329" /></p><br /><p>Da Nang is a harbor town. This is the new bridge spanning the river.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5042/5342447575_cc95456f84.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0330" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5045/5342438309_3598d9f3b2.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0331" /> </p><br /><p>At the Cham museum</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5203/5342446853_b88e4742e7.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0334" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5128/5343060438_3713f9cf45.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0335" /></p><br /><p>Lan poses with an elephant. Fertility was big the Cham, yes those are breasts adorning the column.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5005/5343049250_928b59e78e.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0336" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5210/5343052316_006f3e2fcb.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0337" /></p><br /><p>The elephant god on the right is the Cham representation of Ganesh</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5050/5343054898_df6eda587f.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0338" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5087/5343059906_f88c462a8d.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0340" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5045/5342442377_c968cafcbb.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0342" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5046/5342435071_6f35f15825.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0343" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5282/5342446145_fe57324a45.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0345" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5209/5343058766_debfb3533a.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0346" /></p><br /><p>Kickin' it Cham style. Definitely the oldest school.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5246/5342448891_a541555a6a.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0347" /></p><br /><p>Cham carving of Shiva</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5205/5342439103_402df24d0f.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0348" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5247/5343057758_e059210bef.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0349" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5282/5343050210_911e74547a.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0350" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5090/5343056674_b499ff0766.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0351" /></p><br /><p>A portable shrine</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5004/5343045268_0cd22fbeb3.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0352" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5167/5343048920_e7743a8b7f.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0353" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5210/5343045666_5c6579d39b.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0354" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5288/5342441279_1501637ab4.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0355" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5247/5342445057_662e526a95.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0356" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5290/5343057372_99dc998d46.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0359" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5002/5342441679_673ab86f2a.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0360" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5127/5342443599_5945a15bcb.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0361" /></p><br /><p>Having coffee and coconut down by the river. Yup they just pulled the coconut out of the fridge, pre-cut.</p>Mike Arefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10097304341470388494noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-22922243134353655222011-01-08T15:54:00.000+07:002011-01-10T21:10:24.660+07:00Paradoxically: Inside The Forbidden City<p>I'm a castle geek, I've explored them in Denmark, England, France, Japan, Norway, and Sweden. My introduction to Vietnamese castles was the Purple City on the Perfume River in Hué. It certainly has elements of the fortresses I've toured in Tokyo and Kyoto but also had it's own distinct style. Certainly it did not have the same fortress-like feel of other castles and the city of Hué has become somewhat incorporated into parts of the citadel. Elements were strongly Japanese while other elements were uniquely Vietnamese, architectural elements of the castle having dispersed into the Vietnamese housing style. Most enjoyable was the exploration, as the Forbidden City is poorly labelled or mapped in English, so turning a corner or passing through a ramshackle portal would open up a new building, otherwise hidden by line of sight. Interestingly because it so warm in Vietnam but very wet in Hué there are many roofs connecting buildings but few walls.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5168/5342420741_bd11592eaf.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0240" /></p><br /><p>The outer gate flying the yellow star.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5283/5343028846_c33eae3581.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0242" /></p><br /><p>The inner gate. When he was a student here Uan used to study here as it was cool in the summer.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5249/5342421095_4135d6edf7.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0244" /></p><br /><p>Moat to the East</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5285/5343038568_3a28914f3c.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0246" /></p><br /><p>Moat to the West</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5002/5342418557_9d84b654cd.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0248" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5343033662_8286274f0b.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0249" /></p><br /><p>The <i>koi</i> ponds before the bridge to the reception courtyard and throne room</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5130/5343035504_dbb78874f1.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0250" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5001/5342428109_7a82be803a.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0253" /></p><br /><p>Playing with the wildlife</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5206/5343027502_9985bac427.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0254" /></p><br /><p>Another view of the throne room</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5002/5343033252_7f68ebfd6d.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0256" /></p><br /><p>So what are Chinese characters doing in a Vietnamese palace?</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5203/5343027822_9f66d0656d.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0257" /></p><br /><p>Inside the inner wall of the Forbidden City</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5289/5343025520_46ae48f62f.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0258" /></p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5129/5342422259_c81a2f6589.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0259" /></p><br /><p>A replica of the royal seal</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5210/5342417511_f4514bb566.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0260" /></p><br /><p>Trying to start a new custom, "drinking" from the great bronze vessels.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5008/5343037100_540598d948.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0261" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5048/5343031180_9d7e6202b7.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0263" /></p><br /><p>Replicas of the columns that at one time supported a pavilion suspended on rope</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5043/5342420399_55094f27e7.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0265" /></p><br /><p>The Royal Reading Pavilion</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5167/5342425395_1a045901dc.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0266" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5082/5343036332_155b55a9e3.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0267" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/5342418981_1c20ddbe97.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0269" /></p><br /><p>Before the Royal Reading pavilion, office of the kings.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5049/5343026732_c2bbbd9daf.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0270" /></p><br /><p>Isolated by a moat, this island holds another crumpled pavilion</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5124/5343029550_6531a96e68.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0271" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5083/5342424325_fa5162fbe2.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0273" /></p><br /><p>A Vietnamese-American ninja sprints from the water</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5243/5343036726_f99a8592e6.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0274" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5123/5343032880_424abf043c.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0275" /></p><br /><p>Another artificial island with a pavilion destroyed by the expansion of its vegetation</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5342416433_4bbfc09a89.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0276" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5046/5342426127_6de6aa601a.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0277" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/5343032380_e9d2f3c04c.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0279" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5241/5343034802_99c0c2c8ac.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0282" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5202/5342428461_3043f70671.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0284" /></p><br /><p>Dragons atop the throne room</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5084/5343026388_33a81da2e6.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0285" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5042/5343029208_0b029da4a3.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0287" /></p><br /><p>In Dong Ba market, all those movies about people running through one of these markets are pure fiction. The population density prevents anything more than a slow crawl through the mob.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5203/5342424649_621fea8369.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0288" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5006/5343031576_50f7a46854.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0289" /></p><br /><p>Hué at night.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5204/5342427751_7bfe377f38.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0291" /></p><br /><p>La Carambole serves French-Vietnamese fusion cooking and is highly rated by multiple guidebooks. They were very busy but the food and service did not meet guidebook inspired expectations.</p><br /><br />Mike Arefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10097304341470388494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-69163062197325172742011-01-07T21:57:00.000+07:002011-01-08T08:48:18.201+07:00Paying Respects: Graves, Shrines, and Temples<p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5002/5334152549_4726cf69f7.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0166" /></p><br /><p>The brave adventuresses before the voyage to Myloi.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5208/5334157887_a025718568.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0169" /></p><br /><p>Rain is no impediment to mopeds, just throw a $2 parka over the rider, bike, and any passengers and away we go. In the background flies the yellow star on red.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5128/5334777006_daa0c40c3e.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0174" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5044/5334781790_608de4ea4d.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0175" /></p><br /><p>This was the "large" one lane road of the highway, with steep shoulder into leech infested waters of unknown depth.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5334769456_434f9ff4e2.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0178" /></p><br /><p>The front gate of Uan's childhood home as seen from the porch</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5283/5334783328_9c05c8b522.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0179" /></p><br /><p>The aforementioned porch</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5085/5334155829_3b8d9bf5ea.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0182" /></p><br /><p>Yes that's a banana tree just off to the left of the column.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5286/5334768776_82f871cf27.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0183" /></p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/5334166941_25b19ec6a3.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0186" /></p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5041/5334152891_bdb3f1768a.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0188" /></p><br /><p>The familial shrine<br /></p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5130/5334778424_ff0b5e98e2.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0191" /></p><br /><p>Paying our respects</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5041/5334774574_6a5e7a03a8.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0184" /></p><br /><p>"Is that a ball of string?" — Lan</p><br /><p>"No, sweetie, that's a dead spider." — Mike</p><br /><p>Spider moves</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5283/5334774216_d060395e6c.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0193" /></p><br /><p>Lan's paternal great grandparents</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5008/5334776582_9ff034b726.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0194" /></p><br /><p>Lan's paternal grandfather</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5086/5334769136_383f60d6b2.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0195" /><br /></p><br /><p>Enjoying drizzling tranquility</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5334772848_b733ffe95d.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0198" /></p><br /><p>Foreground, my beautiful wife, inadvertently in the background the Nguyen family temple</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5123/5334162633_ed4334ee96.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0201" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5008/5334777592_348189340f.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0202" /></p><br /><p>The Land of the Dead</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5001/5334766814_70425817fd.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0204" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5168/5334150965_e05cb295b9.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0205" /></p><br /><p>Uan pays respects at his grandfather's grave, in the background lies his grandmother's resting place.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5001/5334167397_c193df8eed.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0208" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5288/5334770696_76055de85a.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0209" /></p><br /><p>Paying respects at Lan's great grandfather's grave</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5009/5334767808_a3bc16dc40.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0210" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5090/5334167695_dbab21b014.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0211" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5045/5334166217_be05733c3b.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0212" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5047/5334151963_1d82c3455d.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0213" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5127/5334773888_09bca041bf.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0214" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5288/5334770294_fcddfee110.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0215" /></p><br /><p>Grandfather's grave: the family pays their respects.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5001/5334772554_c8bc34acb7.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0216" /></p><br /><p>On the path to meet some extended family on her father's side.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5046/5334163873_222e09248a.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0217" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5201/5334165489_1165d4edf9.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0219" /></p><br /><p>Before the Nguyen family temple</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5041/5334774884_8ce47060be.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0222" /></p><br /><p>No I'm not wearing black latex pants but rather really wet brown khakis.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5122/5334779526_337b29bdfc.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0223" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5050/5334155517_5cc0a8d3a9.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0224" /></p><br /><p>The porch "antechamber" to the family temple, unfortunately the temple proper was barred to us as the caretaker wasn't home during our visit.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5050/5334164669_34249ffc48.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0228" /></p><br /><p>The Lady and the Dragon</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5047/5334163469_3cc9f0c708.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0229" /></p><br /><p>A view from the temple "porch"</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5008/5334156531_0e9edb2390.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0230" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5242/5334151641_50c89560fd.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0231" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5164/5334165837_f9a1268166.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0232" /></p><br /><p>A miniature mountain island situated on the temple grounds with miniature figurines symbolizing an idealized life.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5010/5334157487_f6bc69cd38.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0233" /></p><br /><p>A water buffalo pulling a load past the house</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5164/5334165109_76bd0547e9.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0234" /></p><br /><p>Driving down narrow streets, just wide enough for the van.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5203/5334776082_3d442d3a5d.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0237" /></p><br /><p>Two fathers have coffee with their daughters</p><br /><br />Mike Arefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10097304341470388494noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-72855599858144672182011-01-07T21:02:00.001+07:002011-01-09T10:03:43.969+07:00Step Out of the Cornfields & Dive into the Ricefields<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">January</span> 9, 2011 9:37am<br /><br />On this morning, it's been 2 days in Hue and I've seen and experienced more than I can digest right now. Yesterday especially I felt much perturbed. Going back to my grandfather's home to pay our ceremonial respects, I step out of the van and find this little girl walking from the pathway of my grandfather's home, crying and asking where her mother was. We tried to take her hand to lead her with us to find her mother, but she refused and continued on down the lonely path crying for her mother, saying her mother left her. I asked my father if there was a social service agency we could call, and he said there was nothing like that here in the village...<br /><br />Amongst her, there must be many more. Than I began to realize again how fortunate we are to have what we have. Although our first day in the village was rough with torrents of rain pouring down on us as we walked soaked from home to home, to our grandfather's grave, and to the Nguyen Dynasty Temple, we were able to take refuge from the challenges of nature, take a hot shower, change clothes, and refresh from what I saw was a "rough" day; but what many here could describe as "rough" is survival day by day...<br /><br />I am humbled...by the experiences, the sights, the simplicity, and lack of necessity that people survive on and tread onward. Today, we are off to my mother's homeland of Danang. Not knowing what to expect, I hope to find more balance and clarity in the contrast of Hue and Ho Chi Minh City.linwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16826471190956956961noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-58593136517733219002011-01-07T09:32:00.003+07:002011-01-07T20:52:21.942+07:00Anxious CuriousityJanuary 7, 2011 9:40am<br /><br />We arrived in Hue' yesterday night. I noticed and appreciated the stark contrast between Hue and Ho Chi Minh City immediately. As opposed to the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City (parallel to New York City), Hue appeared more tranquil and vegetated. Of course it is more rural...which sparks anxiousness and curiosity in me at the same time.<br /><br />Yesterday, I was in and out of slumber as I thought about my experiences thusfar...it's been a whirlwind of emotions ranging from disbelief, shame, pride, joy, content, connect, disconnect...oy a little rough. This whirlwind may have explained the dreams that were conjured from me in our village/colonial hotel room...or my parents' many stories of frightful supernatural images. Every creak, imagined crawling feeling on my skin, and shadow posed stress responses in my mind and body. Therefore, the dream I had of waking up and finding myself completely stranded with all of my family, without any means of the basic needs was warranted. <br /><br />A bit of our history: many years ago, the Nguyen Dynasty originated and ruled in Hue. We are visiting the Nguyen temple today. Perhaps my whirlwind of emotions will swirl together into a congruent tunnel instead. Can't wait to find out!<br /><br />linwinlinwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16826471190956956961noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-56847479736488921862011-01-07T09:25:00.002+07:002011-01-07T09:45:28.440+07:00Strength in OneShe killed it.<br /><br />The smell of freshly fallen rain surrounds us in this city called Hue in central Vietnam. After arriving here last night, I've deduced that this place sees many dreary and wet days. The residents walk the streets in rain gear of various "hue"s (haha, see what I did there?) and street markets are protected by massive umbrellas threatening to give at any point due to relentless winds. <br /><br />Despite these less than ideal conditions, life goes on much like the river that runs along this hotel. People move along persistently, intent on being as efficient and productive as possible. As we were sitting down to breakfast, there was a woman rowing her single boat across the river with as much vigor and speed as the scooters that speed along the streets here. Rain and wind aside, she easily mustered enough strength to row faster than my sister could get her camera in focus to take a picture of this admirable feat. <br /><br />She overcame the relentless rain, whipping wind, and rolling river. Yep, she killed it.kimmaaaayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17223200392878768633noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-1071932277395013752011-01-07T08:38:00.000+07:002011-01-08T08:39:13.344+07:00City Girl Dreams, Country Girl Heart<p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px">I have always believed myself to be a city girl, or perhaps I have always hoped to become a city girl with an aura of cool urban efficiency mixed with refined upper-class sophistication. However, Ho Chi Minh City has completely dashed those dreams for me as I in no way whatsoever want to live in a city. In fact, I may never even want to visit a city again. I admit I am being overly dramatic, but Ho Chi Minh City is like New YorK City on steroids! All the trademarks of a city such as traffic, noise, pollution, population density, verticality, etc. are exponentially increased and just totally in your face. Your personal space is constantly assaulted and even in sleep, one cannot escape the invasive grasp of the city. Though I must say that our hotel at least does offer a refuge from all the noise of Ho Chi Minh City. Being on the nineteenth floor of Windsor Plaza Hotel does have its benefits as we have both silence and a fantastic view of the city.</span></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; min-height: 14.0px"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"></span><br /></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>My first impression of Windsor Plaza Hotel was that the decor looked a bit ostentatious with its gaudy gold columns and paneling and an overly elaborate crystal chandelier. Also, the hotel just did not look at all like the pictures on its website. Thus, it was with much apprehension and wariness that my husband, my sisters, and I approached the check-in desk. It really did not help that behind us there were several frantic staff members attempting to clean a large pile of rubble that looked to be either a fallen ceiling tile, or a miniature explosion. As we all were too exhausted to investigate further, we never did figure it out, although my husband half-heartedly suggested that it might have been some sort of terrorist attack. In any case, Windsor Plaza Hotel would be our home for the next couple of days.</span></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; min-height: 14.0px"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"></span><br /></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>And it is turning out to be a pretty good home - the gaudy decor is slowly growing on me, the staff are very friendly, the simple rooms provide all the basic necessities, and the breakfast every morning is great and it’s free! Just a short ride on the elevator down to the 4th floor every morning provides ample rewards for both the eyes and mouths. It is a breakfast buffet that satisfies both Western and Eastern tummies - there is a long table filled with changing items such as stir-fried noodles. fresh dim sum, lyonnaise potatoes, salads, and many other delicious dishes. There is also an egg station where you can get hot omelets made to order, and even a pho station where you can get unlimited bowls of Vietnam’s signature dish! The freshly baked french baguettes are unbelievably soft and buttery and so amazing, I have never had bread like this before in my life. There is also plenty of tempting desserts, and fresh exotic fruits and juices. I am definitely being spoiled here as back in the US, I would only get pho if my mother made it, thus I would be forced to go months without it. And fresh dim sum would be many hours and a torturous drive away and not just a short ride down the elevator. </span></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; min-height: 14.0px"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"></span><br /></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>If the breakfast buffet is any sort of indication, it appears that Windsor Plaza Hotel is trying very hard to cater to Western tourists and their needs. It desperately wants to be a Western landmark at the sacrifice of its Eastern location and this results in an on-going identity crisis. At the exterior is Western features and amenities, but at its core is an Eastern heart and spirit. This is perfectly exemplified in the first three floors of the Windsor Plaza where one finds a vibrant Vietnamese marketplace - An Dong Plaza. At the very foundation of Windsor Plaza lies a multitude of Vietnamese people selling their wares and making a living - it is the living pulse of this hotel. </span></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; min-height: 14.0px"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"></span><br /></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Hesitant to stray from the comforts of our hotel, but determined to explore Vietnam and do what we came to do, my husband, my sisters, and I all piled into Vinasun Taxi along with my parents to head to Ben Thanh Market. Introduction to Ho Chi Minh City via taxi is very eye-opening and thrilling in a life-threatening sort of way. There is absolutely no order to driving or traffic, and hearty vehicles share the road with a plague of fragile Honda scooters carrying minimally protected individuals and families. Every turn finds you head-on with either a vehicle or a pack of scooters and leaves you clutching your seat and exclaiming ‘Dear God!’ at the inevitable collision, yet somehow you make it to your destination unscathed. It is stressful and chaotic, but it works. The sights and sounds of Ho Chi Minh City are never-ending, it is really a physical representation of ADHD. I believe that if you do not have ADHD already, then you will get it once you leave Ho Chi Minh City. I am not sure about my husband or my sisters, but I am hoping to gain much more from Vietnam than ADHD.</span></p>Eagle-eyehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136933785892125603noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-23628234893444683872011-01-06T22:27:00.000+07:002011-01-08T08:50:44.863+07:00Where there's a will there's a Hué<p><br /><br /><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5004/5334787036_46da3f8b02.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0164" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5241/5334172611_213ced41d9.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0165" /></p><br /><p>Hué is the old imperial capital of Vietnam, it's also near the soil from which one half of the family tree springs. Originally, the plan was to drive up from Ho Chi Minh City, but as this would take away from sight seeing and be prohibitively difficult for the frailer members of the party, we split forces allowing us more time in both cities. We booked inexpensive airfare with <a href="http://www.jetstart.com">JetStar Pacific</a>, on very short notice. We had a fantastic buffet dinner at the Center Cafe: sushi, carving stations, hot pot ingredients, pho, pasta, cold cuts, desserts and more.</p><br /><br /><p>We spent the morning shopping in An Duong which is located beneath our hotel. The prices are comparable to Ben Thanh. The Young (Beautiful) Vietnamese-American Women's Association of the Midwest are on a quest to find replica (i.e. knock-off) name brand purses. Although not informed of the rules, this is apparently a competition to locate the best price on the best purse. Competition is fierce as the haggling skills and buyer's remorse varies drastically between the contestants. I have been drafted as impartial judge, who occasionally breaks from the action to negotiate deals on wood, bone, and stone craft items. So far I've found some fine local crafts, that I've been able to haggle down in price.</p><br /><br /><p>Domestic air travel in Vietnam is...interesting. First, with same geometric <i>laissez faire</i> that is used to load mopeds is applied to carry on: redundantly taped cardboard boxes, obviously oversized suitcases, and too many items. Bitter verbal battles raged at the check in counter. Then there is a near panic about getting on and off the plane. The que is more of a suggestion than a rule, and everyone has a gleam of fear that that they will be the last one to hurry up and wait to have their ticket collected, wait for the bus to take us to the plane, wait to get on the plane, wait to get off the plane, wait to take the next bus to the terminal, and then wait for the checked baggage.</p><br /><br /><p>We did not have much time to explore Hué, night falls like a curtain and this being the rainiest city in Vietnam, a fine drizzle greeted us on arrival (as did a bumpy landing). The city is charming on first glance, the traffic is laminar compared to the turbulence of Ho Chi Minh City. Our hotel is a charming renovation of colonial times. Dark wood doors contrast with the light rattan furniture, a small veranda overlooks the Perfume River, the whole effect makes one feel as if we accidentally stepped onto the set of Indiana Jones.</p><br /><br /><p>We had dinner at the Riverside Restaurant which was deserted. Now if the volume has anything to say about the quality of the food, the rest of the food in Hué may just cause nirvana and end war, because the food was excellent, I had a grilled beef kabab and I was able to taste the ginger and lemon grass chicken that the others got. We also got the area specialty, <i>banh khoai</i>, a crispy egg shrimp and egg pancake as an appetizer.</p><br /><br /><p>Time for me to say some "Hail Loperamide's" for an unknown gastronomical transgression. Orbitz be praised.</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Mike Arefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10097304341470388494noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-10321091528775840022011-01-06T12:00:00.002+07:002011-01-06T12:23:50.812+07:00Vietnamese RouletteJanuary 6, 2011 Noon<br /><br />Victory! I am nearly done with shopping for everyone...I think and I hope. I may have the hang of it as well. Even though my clan calls me ruthless, I call it compromise bargaining. <br /><br />These last few days have been hectic to say the least but expected. Vietnamese roulette? It's what I would describe about the road regulation here. I've never seen so many close calls nearing catastrophe and pain...and so many nearly involving us. Everyone who has been to Vietnam says the traffic is crazy, but only until you experience it here in its constant insanity, will you be able to actually absorb it against your will. I myself have experienced it inside a taxi, walking around, family members driving us around, and riding on the back of my cousin's scooter honda myself. I must say I prefer riding on the back of my counsin's honda swerving, speeding, and dodging random drivers/walkers, etc. It was absolutely exhilerating. Rules of the Road Handbook: In Vietnam it's one sentence - "Beep tirelessly and try your luck". <br /><br />We are going to head to Hue to see our father's homeland in a few hours. I am expecting breathtaking views and hopefully more regulated roads...but I guess I can always adjust as we all have opportunities to do in life.<br /><br />linwinlinwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16826471190956956961noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-62445856520939002642011-01-06T11:55:00.002+07:002011-01-06T12:19:34.602+07:00Bigger...est!They hate us!<br /><br />Okay, maybe hate is a little bit hyperbolic. But as I blunder through this country with my bright green fannypack (yes, fannypack) bulging out like a tumor on the side of my torso, I realize that I do stick out. Just a little. The stares are apparent as I walk the streets of this country. I am a bit taller than most and "bigger" as expressed (with endearment) by my aunts and uncles. <br /><br />Although it is unsettling to have people glance and gawk with displeasure sometimes, I know that there is no hate...just misunderstanding. And it's unfortunate that I am not able to communicate more eloquently how I feel so that I could maybe unearth more solidarity and perhaps have those looks of disdain develop into interest or perhaps trust. <br /><br />Being here has been a whirlwind of emotions, but I am embracing the raw nature of this place and am looking forward to seeing much more of this country. So far there has been a lot of (purse)shopping and visiting many relatives in the city. We are set to leave in a few hours to see the more rural areas of Vietnam and it is possible there will be more mouths agape. But not out of hatred, of course. I know, I exaggerate. A little.kimmaaaayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17223200392878768633noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-76185490659085249442011-01-05T09:23:00.001+07:002011-01-06T09:36:48.857+07:00The End Justifies the Journey, Right?<p style="text-align: left;margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica; "><b><br /></b></p> <p style="text-align: left;margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica; min-height: 14px; "><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Alright, so I have not been blogging as frequently as I thought I would, but then I never thought that my exhaustion from the absolutely insane but financially logical flight plan to Vietnam would weigh me down so even in the first few days in Ho Chi Minh City. I suppose it does not help that the discord in time between the US and Vietnam has resulted in several sleepless nights for me. Also, the intellectually poetic prose of my husband’s blog as well as the touchingly humorous and astute blogs of my dear sisters have unintentionally summoned a deep feeling of incompetence and shame in my own abilities. In any case, I made it to Vietnam! </p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; min-height: 14.0px"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"> </span></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>I spent the majority of the journey to Vietnam in a state of confusion and sleepiness despite the wondrous efficiency of Asiana Airlines and the tempting in-flight meals, most of which I missed and one meal in particular that my sisters have not hesitated to point out that I will deeply regret missing for the duration of my life. The long layover in Seoul, Korea was both a blessing and a curse as my spirit was briefly re-invigorated with the novel sights and sounds of a foreign country, but was soon dampened thereafter by the inevitable connecting flight. However, I must confess that my time in Seoul was well worth it as both my husband and I discovered his love for little girls‘ traditional hair accessories and yes, I have photographic evidence that I am more than willing to share. </span></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; min-height: 14.0px"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span></span></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Similar to many other momentous occasions for me, landing in Ho Chi Minh City for the very first time in my life initially proved to be anticlimatic. This feeling was reinforced with the routines of flight arrival - the rough descent of the aircraft, the nauseating taxi to the gate, the chaotic passenger carry-on retrieval at the exact same time, the slow and torturous wait to get off the plane, and the long trek to claim baggage followed by the stress and uncertainty of whether your checked baggage made it to your destination. Fortunately, all our checked baggage made it to Vietnam. And fortunately for me, this anticlimatic feeling quickly dissipated once I stepped beyond the sliding doors of Tan Son Nhat International Airport into the humid embrace of Ho Chi Minh City. </span></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; min-height: 14.0px"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span></span></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>I may never be able to exactly describe what I felt that night because perhaps I am not even sure of everything I felt that night, though I am certain that I felt overwhelmed. At the very start, this journey was laced with great expectations - going home to where I and my parents come from for the very first time and meeting family I have only ever heard about in stories for the very first time. So armed with these great expectations, I went out to meet a country and a family for the first time, and it was simply wonderful. Being greeted and embraced by so many uncles and aunts who were all the spitting image of my mother was genuinely heart-warming, yet very overwhelming. Only brief words and meaningful glances were exchanged as my husband, my sisters, and I were rushed to our hotel by the hotel shuttle, but in those precious few minutes, a substantial promise was made by a city and a family that I finally met to meet again soon. As I sat looking out at Ho Chi Minh City from our hotel shuttle, I felt a sense of peace blanket me as I at last found a missing piece of my soul. </span></p> <p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica; min-height: 14.0px"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"></span><br /></p>Eagle-eyehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17136933785892125603noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-39176569740883926642011-01-04T21:08:00.001+07:002011-01-08T09:45:57.687+07:00A Traffic Sample<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyisvpKCPgx2I-W36cHxeT53Uo6uRxnJT3Ot116V34Aoc-qOZoqKmuW78mORO9VJrnI-1KrG2J_BC2yxpevbw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Mike Arefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10097304341470388494noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-14425225915666500992011-01-04T20:34:00.000+07:002011-01-06T09:22:02.256+07:00Lions, Tigers, and Bears, Oh My!<p>Travel to the third world bears with it all sort of dire warnings and admonishments. No untreated water, no fresh produce, no under or uncooked meat. Take your malaria prophylaxis with your daily bread. Its as if I suddenly joined a cult with certain religious restrictions and taboos. The lightest punishment for violating the tenets of travelism is a demonic affliction of the bowels, the severest fatal disease. The faithful, known as vacationers, can only practice their religion by going on pilgrimages. These crusades are only to strange lands, with people who don't speak your language (well) who have food, practices, history, culture, and customs that are weird only because they are not my own.</p><br /><p>Before an afternoon of familial obligations we went to the botanical gardens and the zoo. I was able to feed the elephants and get up close to the white tigers. Although enjoyable to walk in an open space and marvel at the animals, the enclosures were smaller than Western zoos and several exhibits high lighted the native rats rather than the captive animal.</p><br /><p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5242/5328444937_982a075b0f.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0132" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5290/5329055852_0e98e916fd.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0135" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5002/5329054632_9e254dc488.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0142" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5089/5328447881_30090784ee.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0145" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5010/5329057284_e4fba34ecf.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0146" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/5329056322_d9e15edd3a.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0147" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5167/5329057664_f15f066d92.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0148" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5246/5328446585_16ec2a818d.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0149" /></p><br /><br />Mike Arefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10097304341470388494noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-36537210486921620562011-01-03T23:14:00.000+07:002011-01-05T13:26:54.141+07:00Too Many Mopeds and Concoctions of Cobras<p>Ho Chi Minh City is a city of massive contrast packed into a minimum space. Optimally efficient despite the impression of an infrastructure planned as a fraternity prank. The population pressure is a culture shock, a fairly overwhelming experience when your personal square footage shrinks from 28.3 sq. ft. to 3.1 sq. ft. The minimum clearance between moving vehicles is measured in inches, not feet, an ever changing wall of cars and small trucks mortared together by a hive mind of mopeds. Mopeds used by entire families as the family car; deliverymen having furniture origami competitions as they attempt increasing feats of loading larger and larger pieces for delivery. This makes taxi rides a thrilling, visual, stress test for Western trained drivers. The constant din of activity is a dull sonic assault that is both stimulating and exhausting. This seems to have made people friendly, but reserved. The constant in-your-face activity produces tensions soothed by good manners.</p><br /><p><br /><br /><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5007/5325839773_c848125d8f.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0120" /></p><br /><p>Our first morning was spent visiting Ben Thanh market a bazaar that sells everything from groceries to knock-off Coach bags, woodwork crafts to watches, sunglasses to <i>ao dai</i>. Stalls are crammed together, an entire department store jammed into a closet. I'm a sizable fella by Western standards, by Vietnamese standards I probably require backing lights and escort tugs. My friends tell me I'm imposing, but in Vietnam bravery follows an inverse relationship to size and profit, micronized restaurant managers tell me that I must eat or drink, NOW! People that I nearly step on are trying to sell me sunglasses even though I'm wearing some.<br /></p><br /><p><br /><br /><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5087/5326447618_f6465663c2.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0121" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5001/5325839183_6bdf08d468.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0123" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5245/5326448950_c35c3a8c1e.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0124" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5290/5326447306_11045fe8bb.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0125" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5006/5326446580_5ab9b36055.jpg" width="360" height="480" alt="IMG_0126" /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5288/5325840827_7180c7631c.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0127" /></p><br /><p>"Snake wine" is a delicacy offered at the Ben Thanh market. Apparently this stall was offering the modified snake and scorpion mix, which is probably an extra special high of two neurotoxins and alcohol. Doing a qualitative zoological calculation, where I'm from pickled creepy crawlies are rare finds in museums, here they are common commodity. This begs the question, how many extra scorpions and cobras are there out in the wild just waiting to be picked up and stuffed into bottles to be served as beverages.</p><br /><p><br /><br /><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5004/5326448602_2b6db48d18.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0122" /></p><br /><p>A small street near Uncle 4's house, yes with 10 uncles, they have been given numbers rather than be referred to by their given names.</p><br /><p><br /><br /><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5325841143_8b3a849748.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0128" /></p><br /><br />Mike Arefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10097304341470388494noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-56427465545304996292011-01-03T10:45:00.002+07:002011-01-03T10:55:52.616+07:00Sentimental Beginnings...January 3, 2011 - 10:46am following a nice breakfast<br /><br />Sitting down here typing with a 15 min time limit to use internet access, what is there to say in the past 2 days since I've been back to blog it up...<br /><br />Observations: <br /><ul><li>Asiana Airlines have very beautiful and polished attendants...I wonder what the qualifications are to be an attendant on their airline</li><li>The habitual motions of everyday tasks become conscious...for example having to gurgle after brushing your teeth w/ bottled water to avoid tap water contamination</li><li>The food has been fabulous!</li><li>My bro-in-law makes everyone fumble their words w/ his presence</li></ul><p>Upon arriving yesterday at the Ho Chi Minh city aiport and seeing my family lined up waiting for us...it's hard to put into words...but the feeling was just right. I saw my parents' faces reflected in theirs...and when I hugged my frail grandma's body, she joked around with me like the old times when she visited us in the states. I so look forward to many more moments such as this...utterly unforgettable.</p><p>I gots 5 min to check my work email!</p><p>linwin</p>linwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16826471190956956961noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-25882958626417880772011-01-03T10:44:00.005+07:002011-01-03T10:55:54.639+07:00No longer just spoken wordsWe made it!<br /><br />We have finally arrived in Vietnam after several hours of traveling. Attempting to describe how I feel in just a post would be futile, so I'm just going to say that there are no words to explain the warmth I felt when I saw our family (aunts, uncles, cousins...possibly nephews and nieces) waiting to greet us at the airport. "Greet" would not suffice as this is more than just a greeting between families. We've been waiting our whole lives to meet each other. As I went to shake one of my aunt's hands, I realized that a hand was not nearly enough...so I reached out and wrapped my arms around her in a hug that was so familiar in my mind even though we've never met. <br /><br />So, good start to the too short trip we have planned here in our country. Despite feeling more than a little ill right now and for the duration of our trip here, I am riding high on the knowledge that I will finally get to see and experience what my parents have talked about for so long: home.kimmaaaayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17223200392878768633noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-85264694071943064592011-01-02T14:18:00.001+07:002011-01-02T14:18:26.455+07:00Several thousand miles and I still haven't escaped a pager<p>After witnessing the biblical loading of my parents-in-law's luggage, two-by-two, upon our aluminum ark, we passed the carry-on gymnastics of the security screen, and celebrated New Year's Eve with an impromptu countdown at the gate. I also had to 86 the garlic clove that had somehow found its way into my pocket.</p><br /><p><br /></p><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5123/5314712923_cf72460c7f.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0117.JPG" /><br /><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /> "And they came, two-by-two..."<br /></div><br /><p>Despite initial and final turbulence our trip from <a href="http://flychicago.com/Default.aspx">O'Hare</a> (ORD) to <a href="http://seoul-airport.com/">Incheon</a> (ICN) was surprisingly benign. Lan and I slept for nearly 8 hours of the 12 and half hour flight near the Arctic circle down, along Japan, and evading North Korean air artillery (j/k). The <a href="http://www.boeing.com/commercial/777family/">Boeing 777</a> flown by <a href="http://us.flyasiana.com/Global/US/en/index">Asiana Airlines</a> is amazing, despite being smaller in dimension than a <a href="http://www.boeing.com/commercial/747family/index.html">747</a> it feels roomier, it has enough head and aisle room to keep even oversized Westerns comfortable. Asiana has amazing service and airline food, although having a panicked Korean airline attendant sprint down the aisle during bouts of severe turbulence was not reassuring. However, sleep mask in place, propped in my neck pillow, and with my wife using my shoulder and chest as a head rest we made it safely to Incheon.</p><br /><p>Incheon is truly cosmopolitan airport, our stroll to the transit gate was decorated with antique Korean cabinets on loan from the national museum. Due to a long layover I (thought) I had arranged rooms at the <a href="https://www.airgardenhotel.com/korean/index.php">Incheon Air Transit Hotel</a>, however due to a glitch in the reservation software only one room was reserved, however as luck would have it, they had some left over to book us all. Although the rooms are small, this is certainly an oasis for the weary traveller with an extended lay over. After a brief nap, the Young Vietnamese-American Women's Association of the Midwest and myself explored the duty free shops of Incheon. Yes they have everything. Yes it is expensive even if it is tax free.</p><br /><p>Feeling dehydrated, energy deprived, and not brave enough to venture far outside the confines of my regular breakfast repertoire, we hit up (in turn) SmoothyKing, Dunkin' Donuts, and another American coffee vendor. As we browsed the different duty free shops we were politely pounced upon by employees eager to sell their wares. Interestingly, Incheon has two <a href="http://www.chf.or.kr/chf/eng/facilities/Incheon/Incheon.jsp">Korean Traditional Culture Centers</a> where foreigners can attempt traditional crafts for free. Theoretically, you are only supposed to do one craft, <i>but</i> there are <i>two</i> separate centers. We made a traditional head ornament by folding ribbon and later blotted ink on wet rice paper to create impressions of the underlying tile.</p><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /> <img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5249/5314712701_408f5bf8bb.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0119.JPG" /><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /> A traditional Korean wedding reenactment<br /><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /> <br /><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /> International travel is surreal enough without an extended time in a transit center. I'm literally in the small space between countries, I'm not officially in Korea but I'm still their guest. We are sealed under a Plexiglass and steel structure with different cultures moving rapidly by, oblivious to the wonder of it, getting there or getting home is simply more important. Outside in an alien terrain sit mighty craft on the scattered snow of the Korean winter, rocky hills disappear into the low ceiling of the clouds. Communication is a broken cant assisted by gestures, body language, and patience. Dining is an adventure in trepidation: Will this pager they gave me really signal my order? What will the order actually be? Figuring out how much something costs a challenging psychological calculus, communicated by careful pronunciation and blind faith that thrusting cash at the vendor will generate a result of some kind. Being in the Incheon transit center is something between the movies <a href="http://www.theterminal-themovie.com/">Terminal</a>, <a href="http://www.sonypictures.com/homevideo/meninblack/">Men in Black</a>, and <a href="http://www.starwars.com/">Star Wars</a> (or see the Time Scout series by the late <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Asprin">Robert Lynn Aspirin</a>).<br /></div><br /><br />Mike Arefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10097304341470388494noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-35781226338103229462011-01-01T06:05:00.002+07:002011-01-01T06:26:30.006+07:00New Year's Eve - day before we leave for VietnamIt's 5:10 pm and we will be driving off to Ohare soon and taking off for Vietnam at 1am via Asiana Airlines. Am I prepared for 14 hours straight on an airplane? I don't think I've ever sat for that long nor slept for that long really... I spent much of the night pondering how I can avoid using the potty as I did for my 8 hr. plane trip to Hawaii, but me thinks that is not possible.<br /><br />I loaded up on protein for the day just in case I decide to woman up the first day, try the street foods, become sick b/c my system ain't used to it, and not be able to absorb anything for a while...whoo! I definitely want the full experience of Vietnam including the street theft voodoo that my mom is yelling into my ear right now...apparently Vietnamese thefts can chant verses that can cause you to voluntarily give up your money...ahh! Not to worry, she's putting garlic in my shoulder purse to keep them away...whew I'm safe.<br /><br />HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!! We will be spending it in the airport.<br /><br />linwinlinwinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16826471190956956961noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1806587890696142199.post-41607981353561729242011-01-01T05:26:00.000+07:002011-01-01T05:33:41.996+07:00Not rain, nor fog<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5006/5310305429_6d42a9c524.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0111.JPG" /></p><br /><p style="text-align: center;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5043/5310305203_62961a9b7c.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="IMG_0113.JPG" /></p><br /><p style="text-align: center;">On the road, through driving rain</p><br /><br />Mike Arefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10097304341470388494noreply@blogger.com0