1.08.2011

Paradoxically: Inside The Forbidden City

I'm a castle geek, I've explored them in Denmark, England, France, Japan, Norway, and Sweden. My introduction to Vietnamese castles was the Purple City on the Perfume River in Hué. It certainly has elements of the fortresses I've toured in Tokyo and Kyoto but also had it's own distinct style. Certainly it did not have the same fortress-like feel of other castles and the city of Hué has become somewhat incorporated into parts of the citadel. Elements were strongly Japanese while other elements were uniquely Vietnamese, architectural elements of the castle having dispersed into the Vietnamese housing style. Most enjoyable was the exploration, as the Forbidden City is poorly labelled or mapped in English, so turning a corner or passing through a ramshackle portal would open up a new building, otherwise hidden by line of sight. Interestingly because it so warm in Vietnam but very wet in Hué there are many roofs connecting buildings but few walls.


IMG_0240


The outer gate flying the yellow star.


IMG_0242


The inner gate. When he was a student here Uan used to study here as it was cool in the summer.


IMG_0244


Moat to the East


IMG_0246


Moat to the West


IMG_0248 IMG_0249


The koi ponds before the bridge to the reception courtyard and throne room


IMG_0250 IMG_0253


Playing with the wildlife


IMG_0254


Another view of the throne room


IMG_0256


So what are Chinese characters doing in a Vietnamese palace?


IMG_0257


Inside the inner wall of the Forbidden City


IMG_0258


IMG_0259


A replica of the royal seal


IMG_0260


Trying to start a new custom, "drinking" from the great bronze vessels.


IMG_0261 IMG_0263


Replicas of the columns that at one time supported a pavilion suspended on rope


IMG_0265


The Royal Reading Pavilion


IMG_0266 IMG_0267 IMG_0269


Before the Royal Reading pavilion, office of the kings.


IMG_0270


Isolated by a moat, this island holds another crumpled pavilion


IMG_0271 IMG_0273


A Vietnamese-American ninja sprints from the water


IMG_0274 IMG_0275


Another artificial island with a pavilion destroyed by the expansion of its vegetation


IMG_0276 IMG_0277 IMG_0279 IMG_0282 IMG_0284


Dragons atop the throne room


IMG_0285 IMG_0287


In Dong Ba market, all those movies about people running through one of these markets are pure fiction. The population density prevents anything more than a slow crawl through the mob.


IMG_0288 IMG_0289


Hué at night.


IMG_0291


La Carambole serves French-Vietnamese fusion cooking and is highly rated by multiple guidebooks. They were very busy but the food and service did not meet guidebook inspired expectations.



1.07.2011

Paying Respects: Graves, Shrines, and Temples

IMG_0166


The brave adventuresses before the voyage to Myloi.


IMG_0169


Rain is no impediment to mopeds, just throw a $2 parka over the rider, bike, and any passengers and away we go. In the background flies the yellow star on red.


IMG_0174 IMG_0175


This was the "large" one lane road of the highway, with steep shoulder into leech infested waters of unknown depth.


IMG_0178


The front gate of Uan's childhood home as seen from the porch


IMG_0179


The aforementioned porch


IMG_0182


Yes that's a banana tree just off to the left of the column.


IMG_0183


IMG_0186


IMG_0188


The familial shrine


IMG_0191


Paying our respects


IMG_0184


"Is that a ball of string?" — Lan


"No, sweetie, that's a dead spider." — Mike


Spider moves


IMG_0193


Lan's paternal great grandparents


IMG_0194


Lan's paternal grandfather


IMG_0195


Enjoying drizzling tranquility


IMG_0198


Foreground, my beautiful wife, inadvertently in the background the Nguyen family temple


IMG_0201 IMG_0202


The Land of the Dead


IMG_0204 IMG_0205


Uan pays respects at his grandfather's grave, in the background lies his grandmother's resting place.


IMG_0208 IMG_0209


Paying respects at Lan's great grandfather's grave


IMG_0210 IMG_0211 IMG_0212 IMG_0213 IMG_0214 IMG_0215


Grandfather's grave: the family pays their respects.


IMG_0216


On the path to meet some extended family on her father's side.


IMG_0217 IMG_0219


Before the Nguyen family temple


IMG_0222


No I'm not wearing black latex pants but rather really wet brown khakis.


IMG_0223 IMG_0224


The porch "antechamber" to the family temple, unfortunately the temple proper was barred to us as the caretaker wasn't home during our visit.


IMG_0228


The Lady and the Dragon


IMG_0229


A view from the temple "porch"


IMG_0230 IMG_0231 IMG_0232


A miniature mountain island situated on the temple grounds with miniature figurines symbolizing an idealized life.


IMG_0233


A water buffalo pulling a load past the house


IMG_0234


Driving down narrow streets, just wide enough for the van.


IMG_0237


Two fathers have coffee with their daughters